Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Gone in 30 seconds...

I'm sitting in my car waiting for the time to enter the mtl MEC, sewing my LS shirt cause it ripped last night while I was bouldering. I'm sewing and I'm thinking that one day I will tell my son that Home Ec aint that stupid after all. And those skills we squire as you g boys, like hammering a nail, fixing doors and being handy with our hands, are traits that women look for and that he should learn em, for his partner is not the 8th grader with blond hair and the cool jeans, his wife is out there far away lost likely. And he should learn all he can, because a
When he does meet her, he will only have one chance, that first 30 seconds to make his impression. And ten I thought, it's all about the 30 seconds. Honk about it. 30 seconds to early and your stick in traffic, 30 seconds to long and you fall off the anchors, 30 seconds I total and you might not get to sleep with her again LOL.

But it rely is all about the 30 seconds. Think about it.

That's my piece this morning. Have a great day all.

Friday, March 23, 2012

Demo season begins...

I am still pondering the wording for this entry, will get right back to you on that!

So a few kids, and even some parents, commented on how "cool" my job was and how "fun" it was to travel and do demos and get all this free gear (which is not free, btw, let me explain.)

On the 19th I spent all day on the phone with UPS, on the 20th I spent the afternoon sitting in my car for the package to clear customs at the depo in Lachine. When it was finally obvious it was not gonna be available, I drove off the island, through traffic, changed cars at the house and then drove 170km to Sherbrooke. I missed a meeting at Atmosphere by a good hour ( I am never late ) and got out of the demo at the gym by 11pm. I then drove back home, getting to bed at 2am. I woke at 7 and dealt again with UPS after a quick shower. I packed my car and drove to the depo, to pick up said package, on the west end of town, cross the bridge with my truck ( my car is full and could not accommodate three more large boxes and 150lbs of rope ). When, to my huge surprise, the boxes where not in Lachine, but in Mirabel. So I drove the 100km to Mirabel, found customs, got my boxes, and headed back into town just as gridlock locked down the city. I crossed the bridge, and switched cars at 4pm, and then drove back onto the island, cross traffic and 2 bridges, towards Toronto for the 250km drive to Kingston. 5pm and I was still in the city, 250km away from my destination. I booted the A4 on cruise at 150km/h and got to the Boiler Room just before 7.

That night I slept in a cockroach infected motel off 417, drove to ottawa and checked into the ARC at 250$ a night. I did my PK at MEC the following day, took a nap and demoed at night until midnight the following 2 days. I then drove home after spending the morning at the TDB with the kids. I had sunday off. I caught up on paperwork and then left this morning for quebec city. I checked in at noon @ Pur, went to see the boys at Vie Sportive, got some grub, called and set an appointment in Chicoutimi tomorrow morning at 9am ( a 2 h drive from QC) and I will demo tonight, and tomorrow night at gyms here in QC. Thats my week so far. You like them apples?

So you want my job now?

All in all, yes, I love what I do, but it is still a Job, and requires a lot of planing and being very savy on time and travel times.

Its hotels that cost too much, food that tastes too salty, long drives and mind numbing highways with no exits, its 5$/gallon and free tshirts. Its also climbing with kids, giving away swag and seeing old friends I do not get to see very much. Its about the gym owners being fucking cool and offering me water and the lonely nights spent staring at spreadsheets memorizing figures and numbers and skews.

love it! :)

Pictures from top to bottom:

My room @ Pur in Quebec City
Demo at VR : 10pm

The Arc Hotel bar and a glass of Pinot. Thanks for serving me after the hours. We both know the tip was worth it :)

Giving away prizes at VR: 11pm

1:23 am after the Coyote demo and a long three days of UPS and driving mayhem.

Everything I climber needs...

Friday, March 16, 2012

End of WARS, start of peace.

The biggest tragedy of our existence is that Humans are inherently egotistical. History is written by those who slay heros. The bible was not written by Jesus or God, but by those who wanted to be them at all costs, who wanted the fame, but without the sacrifice.

Some of us fight for reasons few understand. We walk instead of drive, or buy a Prius when we know full well we will not make up the difference in price with gas consumption. We stand in front of a row of officials, alone, and get mocked and humiliated. We point out the wrong, only to be told that WE are wrong. We ask questions, and for answers, and get slaughtered at the stake for it. We are told to voice our speech and live a free life, but cannot speak unless its approved, and cannot leave without a passport.

Some of you might remember last september I witnessed horrible acts at my local crag, and when I dug a little deeper, I found hallucinating facts and wrong doings from the very people who are paid to protect that very spot.

Well ladies, and gentlemen (if they still do exist), I was handed an Ultimatum by a law firm today asking me to cease and desist all defamation and slandering of said persons or I would be brought before a jury of my peers ( funny, I seem not to recall having friends for a while ).

Funny thing about the legal notice, is that it was processed on the 13th of March, while I had already deleted most all of the videos and written entries on the 6th of March. On the 6th, my forum thread, which was the most popular and longest thread on the forum, was locked down. I asked the website owner on the 7th of March to either allow us free speech and re-activate the thread, or delete the thread entirly. I see no point in keeping a thread online but locked, as we cannot voice our opinions on it anyway. It was deleted.

Standing alone is something few of you will ever experience. Even fewer of you will ever appreciate what is done without recognition.

But I have to say, with all the enemies made, friends lost, and doors shut, I am glad that at least the person who seems to be so upset about me pointing out his errors, is no longer in charge of anything. He was thanked for his service and now his job is vacant and hopefully, someone competent will fill it. At least, that is one step in the right direction.

I am not saying any names, of course, because I do not want to delete this post. I want you all to know that I will not give up, and that this is in no way over.

I look forward in going climbing tomorrow, at Weir, knowing full well that I am safe, because of our acts and our loudness, bolts where fixed, anchors replaced, and corrections made, that would not have been without this little piece of shit asshole ( me ) who paints his nails and climbs all year, screaming to high heavens.

I bow, and I thank all of those who joined me, side by side, oh wait, oups, none of you did.

Who cares, I did this for you all, and the ends justify the means, in this case anyway.




March 18 2012 18:25pm

Monday, March 12, 2012


...and even more boxes. DAMN!

More swag and more boxes...

FYI. Who ever is at the GRAND RIVER demo in Kitchener on the 7th, thats my last date and all my gear is going to be given out then. ALL MY SAMPLES... lucky bastards.


Wednesday, March 7, 2012

KONY 2012

KONY 2012


No place like HOME!

Well its offcial. I turned in my car papers to the Mexican Border Authority and I am now in San Antonio, making my way back to my igloo in the great white north, following the path of my ancestor fur or Beaver trappers. ( right Jeb? ) Hence the season has fallen, the tears shed, the blood boiled and laid down to rest. We had some good times, and I will miss many for the next 6 months, until my return.

On our last day, we started to develop a new wall. And Paya and I put up El Salto's first 9's and 10's, on tufas and roofs. Sick. I will get some shots of it soon.

I drove out early in the morning, after my breakfast with my peachy little chica and some goodbyes.

San Antonio is really not that interesting, so lets skip that, and supper with Jeb was alright, lacking in moral fibre and his wife. Oscar was also MIA with his GF. I guess I am getting boring in my old age.

Looks like I will be heading towards HorsePens 40 for a couple days of solo time. I look forward to the solitude. I need a Vaca. Maybe Rocktown and the Red to finish off, perhaps:). I need to be back in MTL by the 15th to receive my pallets from REVOLUTION for the Demo Tour and start sorting and packing for that. My La Spotiva boxes are waiting too, as are the So iLL ones. All the goodies.

I look forward to a clean shower and dealing with UPS at the depot again. I miss it. Damn, need to get my coat dry cleaned and I need new jeans. Gotta go!