Thursday, February 21, 2013

New route up-date! Feb 21 2013

Well the season in Mexico is slowly coming to an end. I thought I would update all the new routes we have put up so far. Marc is developing a new crag close to El Salto, I have yet to go. I feel more keen on the projects here. I will climb for a few weeks and then, with a few days left before the wedding and heading north, I will try to sink in the last of the 400 pieces I have left. Hopefully bring the tally up close to 40 for the season. So far, 19 have gone up. Here is the list a a few shots I took over the past few weeks. Enjoy. :)

( the pictures are taking too much time. I'll get em up as soon as I get a good connection, promise ).

Swing Swing  5.8 8 bolts 15m  FA/FFA Paya y Ulric Feb 1 2013
Hall of Fame 5.11d(R) 16 bolts 35m Bring your balls and a helmet for the         belayer. Loose and dirty, but really nice climbing on the upper part.
All Along the Watchtower  5.10+ 12 Bolts 30m Full Anchors
Ulricimartin 5.10a 10m 6 bolts Full Anchors. Robin named this route. I don't know why but its funny.

Naked Lunch 5.14b/c TBC 50m 6 bolts Climb Dante's Inferno and punch through the anchors for another 20m of power endurance through thin moves with delicate feet manouvers. Take a breather and hold off the pump for the runout to the anchors. Stellar. Sub/Full Anchors. Belayer beware. FA Ulric Dec 2012

Camino de Chino EXT. 5.14a/b TBC 45m 4 bolts.  Hike Camino de Chino and check  your fears at the door, crimp and throw all the way to the anchors. Whippers galor! Runout but uber safe. FA Ulric Dec 2012

Quesadilla de Oro 5.12+ 40 m 14 bolts Climb past the anchors of Quesadilla after trying to rest. Technical face leads to a jug slab, but don't count your pennies till you clip the anchor. Surprise Surprise. Full anchors. FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2012 

Midnight City 5.12d 22 bolts 40m Sub Anchor  Climb through the low crux at the thrid bolt with a thin pinch and throw. Then ease up and climb 35m of 11+ technical laybacks and thin slab climbing. Sub anchor to lower. Belayer beware. Can Lower off with a 80m. Full Anchors. FA/FFA Ulric Dec 2012

I Vision 5.11 20m 10 Bolts Don't expect to flash this. Nothing is what it seems. FA/FFA Ulric Dec 2012

EZ Street 5.11+ 20m 11 Bolts Interesting start to a super jug slab. FA/FFA Ulric Dec 2012

Carlos, POR FAVOR! 5.12c 19 Bolts 35m FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2013

La Nota de Musica 5.13- 16 Bolts 35m  FA Ulric Jan 2013

Freak Bamboo Butterfly 5.12+ 15 Bolts 35m  Climb the centre route to the top. Hard moves off the first bolts lead to nice easy climbing through jugs, pockets and tufas. FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2 2013

Sea of Tranquility 5.13c 15 Bolts 30m FA Ulric Jan 2013

Petite Mervielle 5.11c/d 25m 10 Bolts + Full Anchors FA Ulric FFA Ulric, Rodrigo y Eva Nov 2012

El Camelion Azul 5.12b 30m First four bolts of 3 and then tread right for 25 meters of steep tufas and knee bars to the delicate finish below the anchors. Full Anchors. FA/FFA Ulric Nov 2012(Please avoid touching the blocs in the gully on the left at the start of 3 and 4, A family of Large exotic tropically coloured Lizards live in that habitat. Hence the non direct start.)

Almost Believe That They're Real 5.12+ 30m Start on the right side of the centre wall, in a left facing Dihedral. Climb past jugs through the roof and punch it to the chains past the second roof. Full Anchors. FA Ulric Nov 2012

Pictures of You 5.12+ 45m Climb Almost Believe That They're Real and continue past the first anchors through the roof and thin headwall up top to Full Anchors. Belayer beware. FA/FFA Ulric Feb 2013

The Breathe of Silence 5.13- 40m Left most route. Three roofs and a run out headwall at the top with sloppy overhanging throws to the anchor. Belayer beware. Full Anchors. FA/FFA Ulric  Feb 2013

Edgardo getting his tattoo from Robin!

Shot from 7am in Cienega

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Double Dot

Check out what the Kehls are making now. Great little hats and accessories knitted by hand by them ( which I would pay top dollar for a picture of Jason knitting ), custom for you.

I will have some for sale during the Tour this spring. So bring cash, cause this is not the olympics, so Visa is not sponsoring. :)

Check ou Double Dot on fb. I am sure the webpage is not far behind.

Demo Poster up-dated

YES! Its on! 

Venga Tio


When I lived in BC in 05, I met Noemi aka Noe. We laughed, and cried, and got fucked over by some douche in NYC after selling Christmas trees for 35 days in the streets. But we had one thing in common, that kept us going, all those cold nights, hungry and bathroom-less mornings, trying to find a hole to shit in, sometimes using buckets in plain site of millionaires walking to wallstreet.

We had Ferry.

At fifty-three minutes, we called it the Christmas Song.

Thanks to youtube, now, you can all hear it.


Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Ahhhhhhh urban

I might be out of the loop, but this is cool.

Tonight, for you! :)

Its sometimes hard to put into words how we feel. We travel time and future and silienty, at night, in the darkness behind our eyes, we conjure up these unavailable ideals. We think of the one long gone, the future ahead. The loves that have past us by, and thinking we shall never feel that way again, until one moment, when you least dream of the fact, it happens again. This is for you, tonight, on the wake of Valentines Day, know that someone really cares, but knowing you will be with another. Who really, would love to be there, for you. I hope you enjoy the following, cause tonight, this page, this blog, is not for the 2000 people who click on it every week, but just for you. If I could shut it down and only give it to you, I would. 

A song is always a great way for me to pass my feelings onto another person, so I dedicate this one, to you as well. Double shot, so to speak.

Take care fair chica. I hope this finds you, and finds you smiling

Nothing in our hearts can it beside, threw the flow of love that it deserves
It singles out the coldest, the deepest, the most fragile
Warms up the ice and depths of the eternal thaw, leaving lights in blurs
And it then fades with the light of thermic ever-last, staying, silent, proud.

Can it survive another winter, another nano second without
Will it live to see you stand and walk towards it
open, in dire need of something you do not know you need
But can simply stay silent, wishing for all man kind to witness this scene